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Why Some Yarns Pill More Than Others

Aug 13
4 min read
Mustard yarn knitting project on needles over a magazine on a wooden table, with a ball of yarn and scissors nearby

Understanding One of the Most Misunderstood Parts of Knitting

Welcome back to Summer Yarn School! We're down to our final two lessons, and this week we're tackling a topic that almost every knitter encounters but one we may not really understand.


Picture this...

You've just finished a beautiful sweater.

You wear it proudly a few times, and then one day you notice tiny little fuzz balls beginning to appear under the arms, along the sides, or where your favorite crossbody bag rests.

Your heart sinks.

"Did I choose the wrong yarn?" "Is this poor-quality yarn?" "Did I do something wrong?"


If you've ever had those thoughts, let me reassure you: Probably not.


Pilling is one of the most misunderstood characteristics of natural fibers, and in many cases, it's simply part of the life of a well-loved handmade garment.


Let's talk about why it happens and why it isn't necessarily something to fear.


WHAT IS PILLING?

Pills are small balls of tangled fibers that form on the surface of knitted fabric.


As your sweater rubs against itself or against your body, a purse strap, or even a seatbelt; tiny loose fibers begin to work their way to the surface.


Those fibers twist together and form the little fuzzy balls we call pills.


You'll usually notice them first in places that experience the most friction, such as:

  • Under the arms

  • Along the sides

  • Around the cuffs

  • At the elbows

  • Where a purse or backpack strap rests


If that's where your sweater is pilling, it's doing exactly what natural fibers tend to do.


PILLING ISN'T A SIGN OF POOR QUALITY

This may surprise you, but some of the most luxurious yarns available are also some of the most likely to pill.


Why?


Because softness and durability don't always go hand in hand. The fibers that feel buttery soft against your skin are often finer and more delicate. Those delicate fibers naturally work their way to the surface more easily.


In other words... The same qualities that make a yarn feel wonderfully soft can also make it more prone to pilling.


That isn't poor quality. It's simply part of the fiber's personality.

WHAT CAUSES PILLING?

There isn't one single reason. Instead, several characteristics work together.


Fiber Type

Different fibers behave differently.

Soft fibers such as:

  • Fine Merino

  • Cashmere

  • Baby Alpaca

often contain finer fibers that are more likely to migrate to the fabric's surface.


Longer, stronger fibers generally resist pilling a bit better.


Twist

Remember our lesson on yarn twist? Twist plays an important role here too.


Higher-twist yarns hold their fibers together more securely, making them more resistant to abrasion.


Lower-twist yarns often feel loftier and softer, but they may allow more fibers to escape over time.


It's another example of the balance between softness and durability.


Yarn Construction

Construction matters just as much.


A tightly spun multi-ply yarn will often wear differently than a loosely spun single-ply yarn. Single-ply yarns bloom beautifully and create wonderfully soft fabrics. Multi-ply yarns generally provide more structure and resilience.


Neither construction is superior. Each simply has its own strengths.


HOW YOU WEAR YOUR KNITS

Sometimes the yarn isn't the biggest factor at all. Your daily routine matters.


Ask yourself:

  • Do you carry a shoulder bag every day?

  • Do you wear a backpack?

  • Do you cross your arms often?

  • Do you spend long hours driving?


Every one of those activities creates friction. And friction creates wear. The more a garment is loved, the more likely it is to show signs of that love.


CAN PILLING BE PREVENTED?

Not completely. But it can absolutely be minimized.


Here are a few simple ways to help your handknits look their best:

✔ Choose a yarn that's appropriate for the project.

✔ Knit at the recommended gauge to create a stable fabric.

✔ Wash garments gently using products designed for wool.

✔ Allow sweaters to rest between wears.

✔ Remove pills occasionally with a sweater comb or fabric shaver.


One thing many knitters don't realize is that garments often experience an initial shedding period. After those loose surface fibers have been removed, many sweaters settle in beautifully and pill much less over time.


HANDMADE ISN'T MEANT TO STAY PERFECT

One of the biggest mindset shifts I hope Summer Yarn School has encouraged is this:

Handmade garments are meant to be lived in.


They're made from natural fibers. They breathe. They soften. They bloom. They develop character.


Unlike many mass-produced garments made with synthetic fibers, handknits evolve over time. And to me, that's part of their beauty.


Some of my favorite sweaters aren't perfect anymore. BUT they are softer, more comfortable and have been on countless adventures!


Every tiny pill tells the story of a garment that's been loved.


FROM MY KNITTING BASKET

When I'm choosing yarn for a project, I don't ask,"Will this yarn ever pill?"

Instead, I ask, "How do I want this garment to be used?"


A cozy everyday cardigan might be worth a little extra maintenance if it feels incredible to wear. A pair of hiking socks may call for a more durable yarn. A lace shawl may prioritize softness over resilience.


Every project has different priorities. Understanding those trade-offs helps us choose yarn with confidence instead of chasing perfection.


THE TAKEAWAY

The goal isn't to find a yarn that never pills. The goal is to understand what makes a yarn behave the way it does and choose the one that's best suited to your project.


Every fiber has strengths. Every yarn has trade-offs. The more we understand those characteristics, the more confident we become as knitters.


And sometimes...A sweater with a few pills is simply proof that it became one of your favorites.


WHAT'S ON DECK FOR NEXT WEEK?

In our final Summer Yarn School lesson, we'll bring everything we've learned together as we explore the creative possibilities of combining yarns: changing weight, blending color, adding texture, and creating fabrics that are uniquely your own.


Until then...


Cheers & Stitches,

Crystal

 
 
 

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